Firstly, central Cartagena is relatively a small place and you can get almost everywhere by foot. Choose an accommodation in Centro (walled city), Getsemani or in the beginning of Bocagrande, and you don’t have to spend your money on taxis. These touristic areas are perfectly safe in the evening as well, so just enjoy walking around. If you need to go further, don’t hesitate to hop on an urban mini-bus, called puseta. There are several companies, and routes may seem complicated, but don’t worry, even locals often get confused with the system. The drivers are happy to help, just hail a bus and ask if it goes to your destination. You can get off anywhere, just shout “parada!” and the bus will stop. You can always ask fellow travellers, “Costeños” are extremely friendly people and they would not only go an extra mile to point a lost tourist to the right direction but also would give some valuable tips. If you wish to eat elsewhere than in restaurants, let the locals show you the way to cheaper eateries. There are plenty of them when you go a few blocks away from main streets. Also, don’t be afraid to try out food and drinks from the many stands you’ll see on the streets. Everything is tasty and, in my experience, of very good quality. The only time I’ve suffered a food poisoning in Colombia was after having had a seafood salad in an elegant bakery. I guess I was just unfortunate.
So how to make the most of Cartagena when you don’t want to spend too much money? Here are my top-5 tips:
1. Walk up, down and around the colonial walled city
I recently came across this interesting Trip Advisor based map, that shows every country’s popular tourist attractions. Some results are quite unexpected (France: Musée d’Orsay, UK: Harry Potter studio tour…) But guess what is the whole Colombia’s most visited place by the tourists: Cartagena’s walled city! So all this to say, when travelling to Colombia, you just cannot miss la ciudad amurallada. Cartagena’s old town is a Unesco World Heritage site – a charming, colonial-style labyrinth, where I occasionally still get lost. The endless narrow cobblestone alleys mingle between plazas, churches, museums and handicraft shops, and you feel like in a different world.
Start your tour at Torre de Reloj, the famous clock tower, and step into Plaza de los Coches. In just a couple of days in Cartagena, you’ll get familiar with Torre de Reloj. It is a popular meeting point. From there you can go with the flow, and choose any direction. The walled city is divided into two parts: Centro and San Diego, and, as the name says, the whole area is surrounded by a wall, that long ago was built to protect the city from pirate attacks. The best way to explore it is to just wander around leisurely, and admire the architecture. How many different colours can you spot?
When you need a snack, look for a trolley selling tinto (a cup of delicious Colombian black coffee), arepas con queso (round maize bread filled with cheese) or jugos naturales (fresh fruit juices). You can take a break at one of the many parks and squares, sit for a while in the shade, listen to musicians play, and if you’re lucky – see a performance of Caribbean dance.
Once in a while, climb up to the top of the wall to savour the stunning view in all directions: the walled city, the sea, and Bocagrande neighbourhood in the background. A tip for the adventurous and sporty ones: go for a jog on top of the wall.
As you’ll see in the picture, there are small holes in the wall, where you can escape the sun or have a romantic sunset date.
When the heat is too much and AC comes in need, take a break at one of my favourite coffee shops: ADN Café, Café San Alberto, Acabo Libros y Cafe and Pastelería Mila. For lunch and dinner, you’ll find everything from traditional Colombian cuisines to specialities from all over the world. At dusk, enjoy a drink on one of the many terrace bars. Check out my recommendations here, great views are guaranteed.
2. Spend a lazy beach day at Tierra Bomba
Even if Cartagena is by the sea, and the views of the ocean are spectacular, the city beaches are not that great. They are perfect for kite surfing, paddle boarding or a quick swim to cool down. Between overly crowded Playa Blanca and expensive stays on the island groups Islas de Rosario and Islas San Bernando, my choice is Tierra Bomba, an island just 15 minutes away from Cartagena. It definitely is the easiest way to enjoy a relaxed day on the beach.
Playa Punta Arena is a beach you should not miss, you can take a lancha (small boat) from where the neighbourhood called Castillogrande starts (just ask around and you will find). One way trip costs 7500 COP/2.3€, make sure to have an exact change with you so that they don’t try to charge you more. It is best to go there early in the morning because you may want to get back in the afternoon before the sea gets too aggressive (and lancha ride won’t be that smooth). It takes 15mins to get there.
I know this place looks paradisiacal and even a bit luxurious, but it really is very budget-travel friendly. At Punta Arena Beach Hostel you pay 20000 COP/6€ for a day and you can use all the facilities, including a swimming pool and the large selection of hammock beds. Of course, there are more expensive options if you are looking for something really fancy, but this was perfectly fine for me and my friends. Plus, on a Monday or Wednesday morning, there was barely anyone!
They also have an overwhelming choice of food and drink (prices were ok), but I had just a delicious jugo de maracuyà. And then just enjoy beach life, like we did, Cartagena skyline in the background.If you get bored, local vendors in Punta Arena offer you wide range of activities and services: massage, jet ski rides etc. But the good thing is that they don’t bother you as much as the onesin town. So if you prefer, you can just carry a book, pick your hammock bed and turn on your latino music playlist. That is a perfect day at Tierra Bomba. If I still lived in Cartagena (oh if only I still lived in Cartagena…), this is where you would find me every time I have a day off.
3. Explore life at Plaza de la Trinidad in Getsemani
Getsemani, a central neighbourhood opposite to the walled city, is generally where young backpackers head to. With great hostels, cheap bars, street arts and overall cool vibes. I totally recommend you book your stay there. Plaza de la Trinidad is a perfect place to hangout. Grab a beer, some street food and your friends. Choose a spot in front of the Trinidad church and enjoy the music, evening breeze and chill atmosphere. You can even go there alone; you’ll make new friends before you even notice it.
When you walk a bit around the plaza, you’ll see families sitting on the porch of their houses or watch TV in their living room, doors wide open. You’ll get a glimpse of real life in Getsemani, and how locals there live. There’s also a huge collection of changing street art, which impresses me each time!
If street food is not your thing, check out these great and affordable/medium-budget restaurants, all around the corner:
– Good pizza and a nice terrace: La Basilica. Like everywhere in Colombia, you can pick two different pizzas and they’ll make it half and half for you.
– The best fusion sushi and noodles in town, accompanied with great cocktails (during Happy Hour, 2 cocktails for 20000COP!): Kokoa Sushi and Wok. Special deals on Tuesdays #MartesSushi and Thursdays #HappyJueves. Say hi to owner Pepe from me!
– Burgers, US-style sandwiches and tapas: Chachara. Great food and you can sit outside here as well.
For hostels, I recommend Mamallena for those who wish to party, and Friends To Be if you are looking for a more tranquil setting.
4. Walk at sunset from Bocagrande to Marbella
When I was in Cartagena, I did this almost every Sunday evening. I just walked, listened to the waves break on the shore, and at times paused, to admire the sunset. Living by the sea was magical. I quickly got so used to it. And back in Paris, I miss it every day. So please, enjoy while you can. This activity does not cost you anything and is one of the best things that Cartagena has to offer.
The perfect time to leave is around 5.30pm, right before the sun starts to go down. If you walk for an hour or so, you will see the seaside in all nuances of sunset. Depending on where you are based, you could also start walking from El Laguito, or continue until Crespo or La Boquilla. Here you can see my 5km route on a map (walking from down to top from Bocagrande to Marbella):
5. Climb up to Castillo San Felipe
Cartagena is mostly about walking around in different neighbourhoods. However, one sight not to miss is the fortress called Castillo San Felipe. A short lesson about the city’s history: without this castle, the Spaniards would not have managed to defend Cartagena when the English attacked, and the whole country’s, and even the whole continent’s future and culture could have turned out to be very different. In a video, we saw, they even explained that had it not been for the great defence of this castle and the Englishmen had managed to keep the city, the language spoken in South America could be English instead of Castellano. Impressive, and so are the panoramic views from the top.
Count 20 minutes for the walk up, and an hour and a half for the whole visit. The entrance price is 17000 COP/5€ and students get a reduction presenting a student card.
Of course, this is just a small part of what there is to see and do in Cartagena, but something to get started with. For questions, more recommendations, or if you wish to share your tips, feel free to leave a comment!
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Author’s Bio:
Originally from Finland and based in Paris, Emilia speaks 5 languages and her circle of friends is more than multi-cultural. She’s a big fan of long walks, sunsets, rooftops and sushi, and she escapes to the sea whenever possible. Passionate about writing, she started travel blogging about South America during a volunteering mission in Colombia – where she fell in love with the Caribbean culture and lifestyle. You can read about her adventures on Disfruta El Mundo.
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